Essay Galaxy - The Water and the Waves
The Water and the Waves
Imagine that we stand on any ordinary seaside pier, and watch the waves
rolling in and striking against the colums of the pier. Large blue waves
pay little attension to those columns - they divide right and left and
unite after passing each column, much as a army of soldiers would if a tree
stood in their path: it is almost as though the columns had not been there.
But the short waves and ripples find the columns of the pier a much more
formidable obstacle. When the short waves impinge on the columns, they are
sent back and spread as new ripples in all directions. The obstical
provided by the iron columns hardly affects the long
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